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Make sure to read the product label of any insecticide you plan to use to find details about the recommended personal protective gear. Typically, it’s advised to wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, closed-toe shoes with socks, chemical-resistant gloves, and goggles. If the area has poor ventilation, the manufacturer might suggest wearing a mask or respirator.
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Termites Guide

Identify

Inspect

Treat

Prevent

Termite Identification Guide

Termites vs. Ants – How to Differentiate Between Termites & Ants
Before starting any termite control measures, it’s essential to confirm that you're dealing with termites rather than ants. These insects are often mistaken for each other because of their similar appearance. The following characteristics will help you distinguish between the two:

Termites:

  • Termites have a thick, uniform waist.
  • Termites have straight antennae.
  • Termites have shorter legs.
  • If wings are present, both pairs of wings are the same length.

Ants:

  • Ants have a pinched waist.
  • Ants have bent or clubbed antennae.
  • Ants have longer legs.
  • When wings are present, ants’ front wings are longer than their back wings.

Once you’ve identified that you're dealing with termites, you need to determine if they are subterranean or drywood termites. This is important because treatments for these two types differ. If you’ve determined that you have an ant infestation, please refer to our Ant Control Guide.

Subterranean Termites:

  • Their nests are primarily located underground.
  • Subterranean termites build mud tubes to access structures.
  • These termites usually live in large colonies.
  • They do not eject feces or debris from the nest.
  • Subterranean termites tend to eat along the grain of the wood.
  • They may create "carton" nests in wall voids or trees. Cartons are nests made of fecal matter to maintain moisture when they can’t access their underground nests.

Drywood Termites:

  • Drywood termites do not need contact with the soil.
  • They create nests inside the wood they infest.
  • They do not construct mud tubes to access wood from underground.
  • Drywood termites fly to new areas to infest wood.
  • They create small "kick-out" holes in wood to expel feces and debris.
  • Drywood termites leave piles of debris outside the infested wood.
  • They typically eat across and along the grain of the wood.
  • These termites are mostly found in coastal regions, but they can also be transported via infested wood.

If you have confirmed a drywood termite infestation, please refer to our Drywood Termite Control Guide.

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Size
How Big Are Termites?

Termites typically range in size from 1/4" to 3/8" in length and have a long, slender body. Termite larvae are very small, measuring only about 1/10" long.

Shape

  • Termites have a thick, uniform waist.
  • They feature straight antennae.
  • Termites have shorter legs compared to other insects.
  • If wings are present, both pairs are the same size.

Color

Termites' colors vary depending on their role in the colony, ranging from cream to dark black.

Range

  • Subterranean termites are found in most U.S. states.
  • Drywood termites are typically found in the southern coastal regions of the U.S.

Termite Inspection Guide

Inspect Your Home Annually for Termites

It is important to inspect your home for termites at least once a year. While conducting a termite inspection on your own may seem overwhelming, these helpful tips will guide you through performing a thorough inspection.

We recommend scheduling a professional inspection every few years, especially if your home has wood in contact with the ground or areas that are hard to reach.

Tools Needed:

  • Coveralls
  • Bright flashlight
  • Pocket knife or flathead screwdriver
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Step1 What to Look For

How to Perform a Termite Inspection
Inspecting for termites can be a bit messy, so it’s recommended to wear disposable coveralls and gloves. A bright flashlight will help illuminate dark areas, while a flathead screwdriver can be used to probe wood and check for weaknesses indicative of termite activity.

During your inspection, focus on looking for the following signs of a termite infestation:

  • Mud Tubes: Subterranean termites create mud tubes, which are vertical or horizontal tunnels connecting their nests to a wooden food source. These tubes are a clear sign of termite presence, though their absence doesn’t necessarily mean an infestation isn’t present, as termites can reach their food sources through other means.
  • Damaged Wood: Termite-damaged wood may appear "crushed" at structural joints. Tapping the wood with a screwdriver or knife will produce a dull thud. You can further inspect by probing the surface, revealing tunnels that run parallel to the wood grain.
  • Piles of Wings: Swarming termites shed their wings before entering their next developmental stage. These wings are often found in piles near windows or light sources.
  • Bubbling or Buckling Paint and Brittle Drywall: These are signs of potential termite damage to the wood behind the surface.

Potential Problem Areas:
Pay extra attention to these areas during your inspection, as termites are typically found near ground level:

  • Wooden elements in basements and crawl spaces
  • Window sills and frames (especially in the basement), support posts, sub floors, joists, and wooden decks or porches
  • Areas where wood meets concrete, such as in steps, slabs, or porches
  • Cracks in brick, expansion joints, or cement where termites might enter
  • Wood piles and debris near the foundation, including tree stumps, exterior window and door frames, and fence posts

If your inspection does not reveal any evidence of termites, but you still suspect an infestation, you may have drywood termites. Please refer to our Drywood Termite Inspection Guide for further tips.

Products we recommend for Step 1

Termite Inspection Infographic

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Subterranean Termite Treatment Guide

Two-Step Treatment Process

If you discover an active subterranean termite infestation in your home or building, you will typically need to follow a two-step process to eradicate the problem. First, you will treat the active infestation directly, and then apply a soil treatment or baiting system to address the portion of the colony that remains outside.

While DIY termite treatment can save you money, it often requires significant time and effort. If, after reviewing the steps outlined below, you feel unsure or uncomfortable handling the treatment yourself, we recommend hiring a professional pest control service that specializes in termite eradication to ensure proper treatment.

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Step1 If Possible, Treat the Termite Nest Directly

How to Use Termite Foam - Termite Foam Treatment
Whenever possible, it is best to treat the active infestation directly by locating the indoor nesting area. There are various subterranean termite control products available, and we recommend using a non-repellent product to treat the nest. Non-repellent products are ideal because termites unknowingly pick up the product on their bodies and transfer it to others within the colony. These products come in three formulations: concentrated liquids, aerosol sprays, and ready-to-use foams. The formulation you choose should be based on the location of the infestation and your personal preference. If you need assistance in selecting the best product for your situation, feel free to contact our team of pest control professionals.

Drilling into Voids or Wood:
In some cases, you may need to drill holes to access the area where the infestation is located in order to apply the treatment. Drilling into drywall might be necessary to treat wall voids, or you may need to drill directly into infested wood to reach the termite gallery. For drywall, drill holes approximately 18 inches above the floor and between each stud around the infested area. When drilling into wood, drill small holes every 3-4 inches until you encounter resistance, which indicates you've reached the termite gallery. This is where the product should be applied.

Apply Termiticide:
Once you've drilled the necessary holes, apply the termiticide product directly into them according to the product label instructions. We recommend Termidor SC or Termidor Foam for effective treatment.

Be Patient:
It’s crucial to be patient when using non-repellent products, as they may take up to 90 days to eliminate the existing termites.

Products we recommend for Step 1

Pro Tip

If you're using a borate-based product like Boracare to eliminate the current infestation and protect wood from future infestations, we recommend performing the outdoor soil treatment first and waiting 90 days before applying Boracare. Applying Boracare first could cause the outdoor colony to shift direction, which might allow termites to invade a new part of your structure.

For concentrated non-repellent products, it's essential to dedicate a sprayer solely for this use. If you've used herbicides or other insecticides in the sprayer, it could leave behind a residue that interferes with the effectiveness of the non-repellent concentrate.

Step2 Termite Trenching

How to Perform a Subterranean Termite Treatment
We recommend treating the exterior wall near the infestation with a non-repellent concentrated termiticide, such as Termidor SC. This is important for two reasons:

  1. It ensures the sub-colony that was feeding inside the structure is eliminated as they exit the home (this is especially important if you couldn’t directly treat the nest).
  2. It prevents new termites from entering the home.

The steps outlined below are for treating subterranean termites in homes or structures built on a monolithic slab. If you have a crawl space, hollow block foundation, piers, or a floating slab, we recommend calling us at 866-581-7378 for guidance tailored to your situation. Be sure to read the entire product label for comprehensive instructions.

Tools Needed:

  • Trench shovel or pickaxe
  • 5-gallon bucket
  • Hand pump sprayer

Tools Required if Concrete Needs to Be Drilled:

  • Hammer drill (available for rent at home improvement stores)
  • 1/2" x 18" or 1/2" x 24" concrete drill bit

Dig the Trench:
Use the pickaxe or trenching shovel to dig a 6" wide by 6" deep trench directly along the foundation of the infested exterior wall. The foundation of the home will form one side of the trench. The trench should extend for at least 10 linear feet or cover the entire exterior wall that was infested.

Mix the Termiticide Solution:
Once the trench is ready, mix the termiticide solution. Fill the 5-gallon bucket with 4 gallons of water and add the recommended amount of concentrated termiticide, as instructed on the product label. Stir the solution thoroughly to ensure the termiticide is evenly dissolved in the water.

Apply the Solution to the Trench:
Pour the termiticide solution into the trench, using 4 gallons for every 10 linear feet. Pour slowly to ensure even distribution.

Treat the Soil Removed from the Trench:
As you replace the soil back into the trench, spray it with the termiticide solution. Fill a hand pump sprayer with one gallon of finished termiticide and lightly spray the soil as you return it to the trench. Ensure the soil is moist but not soaking.

Drilling Through Concrete:
If there is concrete, such as a carport slab or sidewalk, against the foundation in the treatment area, you will need to drill through the concrete to apply the termiticide solution to the soil beneath. Use the hammer drill with a 1/2" x 18" concrete drill bit and drill holes every 12 inches, 2-3 inches away from the foundation. Drill as deep as possible into the dirt. Once holes are drilled, apply the termiticide at the same rate as the trench (4 gallons per 10 feet). To distribute the solution, use a one-gallon sprayer with a "pin stream" setting to direct the liquid into the holes, or use a funnel.

It may take several attempts to fill the holes properly as the soil might absorb the termiticide slowly. After filling the holes, patch them using concrete filler or Trebor plugs to seal them without the mess.

Products we recommend for Step 2

Pro Tip

If you are using a concentrated non-repellent product, it is important to have a dedicated sprayer just for this purpose. Using a sprayer previously used for herbicides or other insecticides could leave residue that may affect the non-repellent properties of the termiticide.

Subterranean Termite Treatment Infographic

(Click to View Full Graphic)

Subterranean Termite Prevention Guide

Choose Between Trenching or Bait Stations

When deciding how to protect your property from termites, you have two main options: the trenching method or termite bait stations. Below, you will find the necessary steps for both treatments.

We understand that your home is likely one of your biggest investments. While performing the treatment yourself can save you money, it's important to note that termite treatment can be time-consuming and labor-intensive. If, after reviewing the instructions, you don’t feel comfortable handling it on your own, we recommend hiring a professional pest control service with expertise in termite treatments.

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Step1 Subterranean Termite Prevention Guide

Choose Between Trenching or Bait Stations

When it comes to protecting your home from subterranean termites, you can opt for either the trenching method or termite bait stations. Below, we’ll outline the necessary steps for both approaches.

We understand that for most homeowners, their house is their biggest investment. Although performing your own termite treatment can save you money, it can also be labor-intensive and time-consuming. If, after reviewing the instructions, you don’t feel confident in your ability to handle the treatment, we recommend hiring a professional pest control service that specializes in termite treatments.

Preventative termite trenching treatments should be done every 5 to 10 years, depending on the termiticide product used. Older treatments often involved pyrethroid insecticides, which typically last for up to 5 years in the soil. Pyrethroids create a repellent barrier around structures, killing termites as they try to pass through, but termites can often detect these barriers and avoid them. While pyrethroids are budget-friendly, they may not always be as effective due to this limitation.

Newer non-repellent termiticides are preferred because they offer several benefits over pyrethroids. These products:

  • Provide up to 10 years of residual protection
  • Cannot be detected by termites, preventing them from avoiding treated areas
  • Allow termites to pick up the product and transfer it back to the colony, leading to colony elimination

The treatment process described below is for subterranean termites in structures built on monolithic slabs. If your home is built on a crawl space, hollow block foundation, or piers, we suggest calling us at 866-581-7378 for guidance on your specific situation. Be sure to carefully read the product label for complete instructions.

Planning:

Tools Needed:

  • Tape measure

Step 1:

Measure the linear footage around the exterior of your structure. Use a tape measure to determine the total length of the exterior walls (front, back, and sides). This will help you figure out how much product you need.

Step 2:

Choose your product. On most product pages for termite prevention barriers, you'll find information about how much coverage each bottle provides. For example, our popular Termidor (21 fl oz) covers 60 linear feet. If your home has 240 linear feet, you will need 4 bottles of Termidor and an extra bottle to treat the backfill soil. Most concentrated products require 4 gallons of diluted solution for every 10 feet of trench. The exact amount of concentrate to mix with the water will depend on the product used.

Trenching and Drilling Application

Tools Needed:

  • Trench shovel or pick axe
  • 5-gallon bucket
  • Hand pump sprayer

Tools Needed if Concrete Interrupts the Trenching Area:

  • Hammer drill (can be rented)
  • 1/2" x 18" or 1/2" x 24" concrete drill bit
  • Disposable funnels (for easy application)

Dig the Trench:

Using the pick axe or trenching shovel, dig a 6-inch wide by 6-inch deep trench along the foundation where termites were found. The foundation will form one side of the trench. The trench should extend at least 10 linear feet, or along the entire exterior wall affected by termites.

Mark the Trench:

Use flags or simple markers to indicate every 10 feet of the trench for easy application.

Mix the Termiticide Solution:

Once the trench is ready, use a 5-gallon bucket to mix the termiticide solution. Fill the bucket with 4 gallons of water and add the recommended amount of concentrated termiticide (as per the product label). Stir thoroughly until the solution is fully mixed.

Apply the Solution:

Pour the solution into the trench, distributing it evenly. Use 4 gallons of the finished solution for every 10 linear feet of trench.

Treat the Removed Soil:

While replacing the soil, treat it with the same termiticide solution using a hand pump sprayer. Lightly spray the soil until it's moist.

Drilling Through Concrete:

If concrete, such as a carport or sidewalk, blocks access to the foundation, you’ll need to drill holes in the concrete. Use the hammer drill and concrete bit to drill 12-inch spaced holes along the foundation. After drilling, pour the termiticide solution into the holes, following the same 4 gallons per 10 feet rule. Use a sprayer or funnel to direct the liquid into the holes.

Products we recommend for Step 1

Pro Tip

When using concentrated non-repellent products, make sure to dedicate a sprayer solely for termite use. Mixing herbicides or other insecticides in the same sprayer can compromise the non-repellent properties of the concentrate.

Step2 Termite Bait Stations

How to Use the Advance Termite Bait Station System for Prevention
An alternative to trenching treatments is the use of termite bait stations, which is a great option when trenching is not feasible or preferred. Termite bait stations are easier to install and do not require the application of chemicals into the ground. However, they do require regular inspection every 3-4 months for termite activity, and the bait attractant needs to be replenished annually.

Tools Needed:

  • 2 3/4 in. hand or electric auger or post hole digger

Step 1: Install the Termite Bait Stations
Typically, termite bait stations should be placed around the perimeter of the structure, spaced approximately 8 to 10 feet apart. In areas with high termite activity or conducive conditions, you may need to place the stations closer together.
Dig holes approximately 8-10 inches deep, ensuring you avoid water pipes, gas lines, or utility lines. Make sure the holes are 2-4 inches deeper than the bottom of the station so that rainwater can drain. If unsure about the location of utility lines, call 811 for a free line assessment.
The stations should be installed about 1 to 2 feet from the foundation to prevent interference with any previous or future soil treatments.
When placing the station, align it so that one side of the station touches the hole, and the lip sits just above the soil level. Once the station is in place, fill the rest of the hole around it. This ensures that the sides of the station are in contact with the soil.
The lip of the station should be flush with the ground level.
Use a hand-drawn map of your property to mark the location of each station for future reference.

Step 2: Monitor with Pre-Bait
Monitoring is crucial throughout the baiting process. Initially, each station should contain a piece of wood or an inspection cartridge as a "pre-bait". At this stage, the bait is not actively attractive to termites, so it may take time for them to find it.
Studies show that it may take anywhere from 1 to 5 months in the southern states and up to a year or more in northern regions for termites to locate the bait station. Regular monitoring every 3 months is essential.
Once termite activity is observed in the pre-bait, such as mud tubes in the station or the presence of live or dead termites, replace the pre-bait with active bait. Putting the active bait out too early can prematurely eliminate worker termites and prevent the colony from establishing feeding activity.

Step 3: Monitor with Active Termite Bait
Once the active bait is in place, continue monitoring the stations every 3 months, keeping track of your inspections and any signs of feeding.
As long as feeding activity continues, leave the active bait in place.
If feeding stops, it is likely that the colony has been eliminated. At this point, replace the active bait with a monitoring device such as a piece of wood or an inspection cartridge.

Step 4: Ongoing Monitoring
Repeat the process, monitoring the pre-bait monthly and replacing it with active termite bait when necessary to prevent and manage future infestations.

Products we recommend for Step 2

Step3 Using the Advance Termite Bait Station System for Prevention

Termite bait stations serve as a viable alternative to trenching treatments, especially when trenching is not suitable or desired. These bait stations are easier to install and do not involve injecting chemicals into the ground. However, regular inspections every 3-4 months for termite activity are necessary, and the bait attractant should be replenished once a year.

Required Tools:

  • 2 3/4 in. hand or electric auger or post hole digger

Step 1: Install the Termite Bait Stations

Place the termite bait stations around the perimeter of the structure, spacing them about 8 to 10 feet apart. If termite activity is high in certain areas, or if conditions are particularly favorable, the stations should be placed closer together.

Dig holes about 8-10 inches deep, ensuring you avoid water pipes, gas lines, or utility lines. The holes should be 2-4 inches deeper than the bottom of the station to allow for proper drainage. If you're unsure of the locations of utility lines, it's recommended to call 811 for a free line assessment.

The stations should be positioned 1 to 2 feet from the foundation to avoid disrupting any past or future soil treatments.

When placing the station, position it so one side touches the hole and the lip sits just above the soil level. Fill the remaining space in the hole to ensure the station’s sides are in direct contact with the soil. The lip of the station should be level with the ground.

Use a hand-drawn map to mark the location of each station for easy identification later.

Step 2: Monitoring with Pre-Bait

Monitoring is key throughout the baiting process. Initially, each station should contain a "pre-bait," such as a piece of wood or an inspection cartridge. At this stage, the bait is not actively attracting termites, so it may take time for them to find it.

Research shows that termites can take between 1 to 5 months to locate a bait station in the southern states, and up to a year or more in northern areas. Consistent monitoring every 3 months is essential.

Once you observe termite activity, such as mud tubes or live/dead termites in the pre-bait, replace it with active bait. Be sure not to place the active bait too early, as it may kill off the worker termites needed to establish feeding activity.

Step 3: Monitoring with Active Termite Bait

After placing the active bait, continue monitoring the stations every 3 months. Keep detailed records of inspections and signs of feeding activity.

If feeding persists, leave the active bait in place. However, if feeding stops, it likely indicates that the colony has been eliminated. At this point, replace the active bait with a monitoring device, such as a piece of wood or an inspection cartridge.

Step 4: Ongoing Monitoring

Continue the process of monitoring the pre-bait monthly and replace it with active termite bait as necessary to prevent and manage future infestations.

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